Hail and Hummingbird

Devastating Hail and a Visit from a Hummingbird.
My grapes are blooming and sending out new branches like crazy! The flowers are minute inconspicuous and greenish, but because they are in a cluster, they are more visible than if they were to be bourn individually.
We had a seriously bad hailstorm here yesterday afternoon. I missed the event, but observed the drifts of hailstones and the damage afterwards. Several cars had their windows smashed and their bodies dented, and buildings with older shingles had the shingles beaten off. There was also a short spell of flooding in some of the older homes as the subsequent downpour was quite intense and the soil was already wet from previous rains. I am sad to report that a lot of fruit was beaten off of my nanking cherry trees.
Yesterday I spent most of the day out at the farm transplanting beaked hazelnut seedlings into the permanent orchard and weeding. I did a quick scan to check for forest tent caterpillars and there weren’t any more, which proves that Dr. Evans was right about squishing them with a broom. The horse chestnut is absolutely loaded with flower spikes! I have never seen it this full of flowers, so I spent a couple of minutes enjoying watching the insects attending to the flowers and was pleased to see that not only ants were collecting nectar, but real honey bees! That made my day, so I set about some serious weeding as Equisetum or horse tail had made definite inroads in the west end of the garden. I had only been weeding for a few minutes when I heard the distinctive sound of a hummingbird: sure enough I was able to watch as the ruby throated hummingbird checked out several flower clusters before flying off northward.
The blue camas was almost finished blooming: by next weekend there should only be seedpods forming. The mariposa lilies and osha root are blooming. I am sorry to report that I forgot to bring a camera. Next weekend I hope my memory won’t fail me in this respect, so I can share some pictures with you.
The starling chicks in the back yard are almost ready to leave the nest. My neighbors to the north appear to have killed a baby crow as there was one lying on my boulevard right next to their drive way. The house wren is still nesting in the purple martin house in the front yard; happily greeting each day with its bubbling song. There is something in that particular song that is so very cheerful and uplifting that it is the very essence of the happy side of spring. Hope to have more time for pictures next week. Good gardening. MM.

Seeds sprouting in threes.

Good Things Happen In Threes
Yesterday I cut the grass in my little experimental orchard out at the farm. I am happy to report that my apricot from McFayden nursery in Manitoba finished blooming. A plum tree and two of the three apple varieties also from them are in full flower. There is also a little apple tree out there that I grew from seed, and it is also blooming. As I was cutting the grass I observed forest tent caterpillars on one of the apple trees I had started from seed. Remembering the wise words of my forest entomology professor, Dr. Evans, I found a whiskbroom and proceeded to brush them off and crush them. I know it sounds messy, but they are softer than the broom, and the broom is not going to harm the tree, so there is no need for toxic, life-threatening chemicals.
This morning I trimmed the spruce, and pine in the conifer hedge along the north side of the yard in town. The tamaracks hadn’t grown enough to warrant pruning.
Most of the rest of the day was spent weeding the big garden at the farm. New things were popping out of the soil: plums, apricots, beaked hazelnuts, horse chestnuts, and the usual amure maples, Manitoba maples, nanking cherries, green ash, etc. Most of the larger seeded species had sprouted in sets of three. I was especially proud of the horse chestnuts, as these seeds were from trees that I had grown from seed that my brother brought me from British Columbia. I had the second largest size of spencer-lemar containers filled with sandy soil and dug in flush with the external soil level. In this I had planted the horse chestnut seeds in the fall. The tree that the seeds came from is absolutely loaded with flower spikes. Weather permitting, I anticipate a bumper crop of horse chestnuts this fall.
The blue camas is half way through flowering. By next weekend I anticipate very few stragglers will still have blossoms. The mariposa lilies already have flower buds, and may start blooming in about a week. The fritillary lilies are forming seedpods. They bloomed during a spate of exceptionally cold weather, and I am observing a variation in more than just a few seedpods: usually the pods are three-chambered, whereas stress has occasionally produced four-chambered pods in my plants. True to my nature I have been separating out all the four-chambered pods and planting them in my little experimental plot to see what strange mutants will emerge – I will keep you posted!
My European hazelnuts seem to finally be acclimatized and are rapidly catching up to the beaked hazelnuts that are a year older. I am excited to get these babies down into the experimental orchard. Good gardening! MM.

Prinsepia bushes; Prinsepia flowers; Camasia quamash flowers

Insectivorous Plants and Mid-Spring Flowers

Insectivorous Plants and Mid-Spring Flowers
Yesterday I was out weeding the big garden in the country and I am happy to report that the Prisepia sinensis bushes are in full bloom. Also, the first blue camas flower started opening. I remember reading that Prinsepias are native to North America. They have sharp, narrow thorns, narrow leaves, and graceful arching stems. The flowers have five petals and the fruit is a flattened drupe with a single seed that looks like a bumpy smarty. I think the seeds would make a good substitute for buttons if someone were to drill holes in them for the thread. There is not a great deal of pulp in the fruit, however it does make a delicious jam tasting of both peach and apricot.
Although their growth is somewhat slow, they do not suffer from cold damage here in our zone two climate. It takes me from three to five years to bring one of these guys from seed to flower (without fertilizer). I have also observed that buried branch tips tend to root, and roots near the surface tend to sprout leaves, so these plants might also be propagated asexually. The bush’s growth form is somewhat mushroom-shaped. With the profusion of sharp thorns I think this is an ideal plant in areas plagued with deer, moose, and other browsing herbivores. It would also make a great hedge as nothing would want to press up against those formidable thorns.
Blue camas or Camasia quamash is a perennial in the lily family. Indigenous people of North America used to slowly roast the roots in the coals of the fire in order to caramelize them – a treat in an area lacking in sweet foods. The blossoms are startlingly indigo blue and catch your eye from a great distance. Everyone asks me what that incredibly blue flower is. When I tell them it’s a camas, the next thing they say is, “Oh, so it’s poisonous then.” No, it isn’t. Although they share the same family, blue camas belongs to a different genus than the green, white, or death camases (Zygadenus). They make a wonderful addition to any bulb bed, but will require about three years to make it from seed to flower.
My crabapples are blooming and my butterworts and sundews are finally up. I was certain that the butterworts would over winter in the structure I described for you several weeks back, but I only had the plants for less than a year. I am still anxiously waiting for the pitcher plant and sundew seeds to germinate. I will keep you informed. MM.

Fritillaria

Yellow fritillaria in the garden.



Nanking cherries in full bloom along the driveway.

Grape Blosom Buds and Giant Sequoias

Grape Blosom Buds and Giant Sequoias
This morning I actually had time enough to stick my nose in the front yard to discover that most of the Sequoiadendron giganteum seeds had sprouted. The five-year-old grape vines are finally showing the first traces of flower buds as are the may apples, giant forget-me-nots, spanish thrift and squill. The princepia bushes and pentstemon flowers are in full bloom.
Several of the Nicotiana rustica seeds have sprouted. I saved them from plants that I grew last year. So far they have a much higher germination rate than the seeds that I got from Richters. Over several years I have had the repeated experience that seeds purchased from them are not viable, or only marginally so. I do not know the specifics, as to whether they were either poor in quality to begin with or whether they were just old or stored improperly by them.
A number of months ago we bought several types of papaya at the grocery store; washed saved and planted the seed. Today I noticed some of the seeds had sprouted. This is the first time I have been able to get any papaya seeds to germinate. I am very excited.
The American gold finches arrived back yesterday: today there were four adult males at our various feeders. I also heard the house wren today: it always has such a cheerful and bubbling call. I hope to keep you updated next week. MM.

Thornless Honey Locusts and Peas

Thornless Honey Locusts and Peas
Yesterday I was out weeding the big garden in the country, and was pleased to observe that a large quantity of the honey locust seeds and the pea seeds had sprouted.
The yellow fritillary lilies and the nanking cherries are in full bloom (I hope to have some pictures for you shortly). A considerable number of the Indian breadroot seeds from southeast Saskatchewan finally germinated: they have been in the ground for two whole winters now.
The leaves on the European and the beaked hazelnuts are unfolding: so are the leaves on the river grape next to the house wall. The osha root plants are all up and they all look very healthy.
My few surviving quinces are in their fifth year of growth, and this winter they did not die completely back to the ground. Maybe they are starting to synchronize their growth with our colder dryer seasons.
We have a pair of starlings nesting in one of the owl birdhouses on our garage. There are still a large number of ladybugs in the big garden. A rough estimate would be about three ladybugs per square meter. This is less than there were about a month ago when there were about nine per square meter. I have never noticed this many ladybugs this early before. In the past I have only ever seen a lot of ladybugs on plants with lots of nectaries where aphids were active. I haven’t seen any aphids yet this year. That’s all for now. MM.

Wild Lilies, White-Crowned Sparrows and House Finches

Wild Lilies White-Crown Sparrows & House Finches
We just had a big dump of rain and sleet and the sloughs and muskegs; ditches and ponds are all filled to capacity (good spring germinating weather)! Birds are coming back and blessing us with their bright colors and cheerful songs. This year we are host to an unusual number of house finches. Some of the more local birding guides indicate this species as sporadic in this area (too far north). The guides covering larger areas place this little wonder quite a bit further south. However, we have had several visits from them last year. At the moment there have been at least two males and five females visiting our feeders (there could be more, but they keep moving around). We also have at least thirteen white-crown sparrows hopping and bopping and singing their hearts out in our yard. They just love seed scattered on the ground. Now that I have a very small shelf under the big kitchen window, some seeds from the feeder will fall on it (or in the water dish), and this layering effect of having food at different altitudes has enticed these sparrows to occasionally visit our feeders; something they haven’t done before. They have also repeatedly eaten sunflower seeds that had been floating in the water dish (are they soaking their food like a porridge?). There have also been a pair of merlins flying around and mating in our neighborhood, and I heard a pileated woodpecker off to the south as I was checking the plants in the front yard.
In the front yard I am pleased to report that two species of edible camas have sprouted, along with a couple of species of fritillaries and a mariposa (I got all these seeds from J. L. Hudson Seedsman). It should take about three years before they are big enough to bloom.
There is not much to report on the tree seeds other than that some of the domestic apple seeds have sprouted. This is no longer a novelty for me as I already have several specimens that I grew that are about four feet tall.
Today I observed that the fritillary lilies out on the farm are beginning to bloom… some have two or even three bells on a stem. I hope to take a picture of them next weekend and possibly post it the week after. The mountain mahonia that I grew from seed is already opening up new leaves and actively growing. The plants I bought as adults from a nursery still look completely dormant. In the back yard, the may apple buds are just beginning to poke through the soil.
The pictures in my last posting are of several types of spring flowering crocuses and a blue starflower. I am not much of a photographer, so the focus may be a bit out. With my competent wife’s patient assistance, I hope to have some finch and sparrow pictures to show you shortly. Please stay tuned… MM.

Mariposa Lilies, European Hazelnuts and Balsamroots

Mariposa Lilies, European Hazelnuts & Balsamroots
Greetings earthlings! Today I am writing you on my new Alphasmart Neo, so if there are lots of mistakes, then please just ignore them.
Some of the European hazelnuts actually had their buds unfolding when I looked at them today! Last year they were really set back by the winter, but this year they look a lot better. In fact, they seem a couple of weeks ahead of the local beaked hazelnuts. I am quite excited about this, as I may actually be able to see them fruit in my lifetime.
Another exciting observation: next to the bitterroots (which are doing very well by the way), I had planted seeds from various species of fritillary and mariposa lily about one and one half years ago. Last year I was disappointed in not finding anything; however, this year I observed at least two germinants. I can’t be certain what they are for sure, but judging by the size of the seed and the width of the leaf, I’m going to hazard a guess that it is one of the mariposas. I’ve really been looking forward to this as I wish to determine if they can withstand our cold. Should this be the case, then I also wish to determine if I can cross them with our local species. What strange mutants I hope to make!
During the week I cleaned up the front yard by weeding and removing old dead leaves and stems. It looks a lot less wild now! In the process of cleaning up I observed that the rhombic leaved sunflower tubers are sprouting all over the place in their designated section. It’s almost like a carpet. Their cousins, the balsamroots, are also sprouting healthy furry leaves. I wonder if they will bloom this summer? They are barely one year old.
Good growing. MM

Prairie Anemone

Prairie Anemone
Two years ago I dug a prairie anemone (Anemone patens) out of the ditch and planted it in my front yard. Last year it produced leaves, but no flowers. This year it appears to have a bud. These native plants are becoming more popular in greenhouses and garden centers. Personal observation has shown that this plant prefers well-drained, sunny sites, usually with a south or west exposure. Due to the late summer moisture deficit experienced by these areas, it usually has a short intense period of growth and blossoming in the spring. After seed has set the upper portion of the plant usually dries up and the roots go dormant. For this reason it is a good idea to mark it well so you don’t accidentally uproot it while weeding.
Belonging to the buttercup family or Ranunculaceae, it has fuzzy leaves, seeds, and flowers. The flowers are usually solitary and are purplish blue. Many species of anemone are also referred to as windflowers as the fuzzy seed hairs are able to carry the seeds a fair distance in even a moderate wind. These are some of my favorite plants as the blooms are early and conspicuous amongst the grasses where they are found. For early spring color and cheer, you can’t go wrong with this hardy little plant in the cold dry garden. MM

Observations in the Bitterroot Patch

The Bitterroots Have Risen!
I finally made it out to the big garden and planted my thorn less honey locust seeds; the ground was thawed but muddy. Here, at this time of the year, it is hard to tell if there is still life in some of the smaller seedlings: I’m talking about the domestic cherry; domestic plumb; domestic apricot; Japanese quince; European hazelnut. The only seedlings that were overflowing with life were the elderberries and the princepia (the elderberries grew wild in my front yard and I transplanted them into pots that I buried in the big garden; they already had their leaves open!).
Of the more local native plants, the Spanish bayonet did very well and the beaked hazelnut looks very healthy. In the bulbs, the yellow fritillary lilies and the blue camas are just poking up the tops of their leaves. Best of all, the common bitterroots that I seeded in fall of 2005 are up and healthy; possibly the greenest top growth in the whole garden!
While I was out there I dug over my half of the greenhouse and planted some zucchini, long English cucumber and mixed melon (from fruit we bought at the grocery store) seeds. In the afternoon I went home and cleaned up the old dead leaves and stalks from the asparagus, the plants that were in the cold frame and some of the perennials in the front yard. A quick survey of the front yard showed that the crocuses and the blue starflowers are blooming, and the yellow fritillary and blue camas are poking their leaves up through the soil here as well. When I get a moment I must research the distinguishing characteristics of the different species of crocus as I wish to find a reliable source of colchicine to further my production of mutants. I hope everything is growing good with you. MM.

What My Readers Want (A Blog About Butterworts).
As a thank you for your supporting my blog I am devoting this edition to you: the reader. My sit meter has shown that the most common search term attracting readers is Pinguicula a.k.a. the butterwort.
This is a small plant with a cluster of dime-sized pale yellow sticky leaves that lay flat on the ground. The leaves can have slightly upturned edges. An erect flower stalk supports a small bilaterally symmetrical purplish flower vaguely reminiscent of a wild violet.
The big deal about this plant is that it is passively carnivorous. Instead of grabbing passing bugs it has adapted itself to a life of collecting pollen and small dead bugs on its sticky leaf surfaces and digesting them in the open. The main reason plants have selected carnivorous lifestyles is to supplement their nutrient requirements as they usually live in areas that are low in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Protein is rich in these items (especially nitrogen), so these plants have adapted to extract the protein from the dead bugs and pollen and use it for their own metabolism. Many carnivorous or insectivorous plants live in fens, bogs, swamps and muskegs where the flowing water removes available nutrients but insect life is abundant.
Personal observation has shown butterworts are not much different from other carnivorous plants: they seem to prefer wet mineral soil, usually tending toward the heavier clays. I have seen these little guys growing in the moss along the banks of seasonally flooded mountain streams and rivers. I have also seen them growing around springs and seeps where the slumping action keeps competition down somewhat. Trails around mountain lakes also can be blessed with butterworts, probably because the disturbance of the trail users keeps down competition; an important consideration for something with such short stature. As for light requirements, they do seem to tolerate most light intensities except for the extremes of near either one hundred percent light exposure or absence.
If I were to set up a plot for butterwort culture I would use a basin at least 30cm deep (to maintain even heat around the roots), and fill it almost full of clay. Leave a small pocket or hole in one corner clear to the bottom to allow you to see how high the water table is (see if your plants need watering). Line it with a synthetic cloth that is not waterproof. To support the cloth in place brace some broad flat rocks against it. This way the water can flow around the rocks and through the cloth to get into the soil. Position the hole below a downspout to ensure that it receives a fairly constant water flow from a pure water source. Make sure the basin gently slopes down toward the hollowed out hole so that it is the only part of the basin with standing water – you don’t want to wash away or drown your butterworts.
Keep the water table high, even if this means supplemental watering during droughts. Try to use rainwater, and if this isn’t available, then try filtered water. If the drought is a short one, you may get away with using ordinary tap water; but try pouring it into your depth gauge hole and not directly on the plant. To hide the fact that this is a basin in your garden, you can pile rocks and moss or soil around it. Even more interesting and temperature regulating: you may want to burry your basin so that its soil level is even with the surrounding garden. If this is the case, make sure that it is slightly tilted to allow excess water to drain during wet weather: make sure the depth gauge hole is the lowest part of the basin. Happy planting. MM.

SOME HAVE SPROUTED!
Last Monday I planted all my pepo seeds: small shining light watermelon; snap melon; sugar pie pumpkin; vert grampant melon (all from J.L. Hudson); mixture of cantaloupe and honeydew melon seeds from fruit I bought in the grocery store; mixture of both small and large fruited papaya seeds from fruit I bought in the grocery store. I am pleased to report that some seeds have sprouted in all of the pots containing cactus seeds and pepo seeds. When I notice germination in a pot I leave the cellophane cover on for about three more days before removing it. The only seeds that have not yet shown any sign of life are the copal and the papaya.
The mold has made repeated appearances in the pots containing my star cacti. So far I have resorted to a good stout spraying of 3% hydrogen peroxide on three different occasions. After the cellophane came off of the pots I have discontinued hydrogen peroxide use and am removing small isolated tufts of mold with a clean toothpick. This seems to be effective at the moment, as the soil is beginning to dry out.
On Friday I took the ten Asimina triloba seeds that have been stratifying in the fridge for the last three and one third months (they still haven’t sprouted yet!) and planted them in the front yard, which is now free of snow. I observed that the soil is now thawed on the surface during the afternoon on warm days. I also noted that my crocuses have leaves poking up through the soil. I had hoped to plant my Gleditsia triacanthos inermis seeds yesterday, but was thwarted by the cold snowy weather.
On Friday I heard a Merlin behind our house. They usually hang around here for a couple of weeks in the early spring. I expect they are probably mating. I have had several different sized nesting boxes out for them for over a year now with no result. It’s possible that I might have more success in a more rural setting where I could have some larger trees to set the nest boxes up in. The red polls are still swarming to the feeders. I have become concerned about the stray cats that wander into our yard. Our town has a cat bylaw forbidding animals to run loose, but people don’t seem to care much for the safety of their pets. If it was my kitty, I would want to know that it wasn’t curled up on the neighbor’s nice warm truck engine when he goes to start his vehicle. I have known many a loving pet to have been seriously wounded by the unexpected starting of a motor. Sometimes I think people are a lot dumber than their pets! Happy planting! MM.

PLANTING CACTI
On Monday I took time out to plant my cactus seeds. This year I made up a mixture using about 35% volcanic rock, and 13% each of perlite, vermiculite, zeolite, sand and peat. On the bottoms of the flowerpots I used a layer of packing Styrofoam peanuts to prevent the soil from sifting out of the drainage holes. After seeding I fastened cellophane over the top of the containers using elastic bands, and stood the pots in water until they were saturated by capillary action. This year I tried four types of cacti: a star cactus; dragon fruit; Cardon santos; pishicol Negro(pillow hair cactus). I also planted a species of copal, which is a small desert tree from Mexico, having lemon scented sap and bark and naturally adapting to a bonsai form. However, the seeds of this copal had to soak for two days in 3% hydrogen peroxide. These seeds all came from Sacred Succulents in California (They are putting together a beautiful web site full of stunning pictures!). From J.L.Hudson Seedsman I have several species and heirloom varieties of pepo as well as an heirloom sweet tomato. I’m running out of room on the windowsill and have chosen to plant the tomato for now. I recently bought a small 500watt work lamp with a mercury bulb and set it up over the tote tray that the flowerpots are in. In the mornings and evenings I have had it on for between one and two hours at a time. Eventually I hope to put it on a timer to boost the morning and evening light in that corner. After that I will think about planting the pepos. With any luck we will eventually have a desert in our living room!
A couple of days ago I noticed a white fuzzy mold infecting my planting of star cactus seeds, so I went out on a limb and sprayed the soil with a solid coating of 3% hydrogen peroxide (about 12 good sprays with a misting bottle). I also changed the cellophane cover, as I was concerned that the static electricity that the plastic builds up might be holding some mold spores. I am glad that I tried this, as this morning I observed germination in the pots with the star cactus seeds and the tomato seeds. If anyone has any prior experience with cactus seedlings using bottom heat, then I’d like to know the particulars (type of heater or pad; temperature settings; times). Best of luck in your gardening adventures! MM.

SPRING!
On Saturday I was outside, unfettered by winter apparel other than my snow boots, and it did not feel cold. Significant patches of bare ground are developing as the remaining snow becomes more and more granular. In my travels I observed a significant population of collembolans or snow fleas or springtails. These are tiny true insects with tails that are curled under their abdomens. When they are disturbed they flick their tails, which causes them to jump. In the summer they live in the uppermost soil layers, where the air is more breathable, feasting on available organic matter.
Already in the last couple of weeks I have observed numerous small groups of Canada geese, and the behavior of the ravens seems to indicate that they are involved in their usual spring mating activities: getting together in pairs; flying in unusual patterns; calling in a high pitched repetitive hoot rather than their usual croak.
I am sad to report that the ten honey locust seeds that sprouted a couple of months ago have all perished, most likely due to the cold, moldy, poor lighting conditions of our house. No matter. In a couple of more months there will be so many honey locust seedlings outdoors that I won’t know what to do with them all. The pawpaw seeds in the fridge do not show signs of sprouting and this disturbs me. I had hoped they would show some signs of life by now. Looking forward to planting on Monday. MM.

Melting Snow

Last week temperatures consistently topped the melting point of water, and now a thin strip of front yard garden is visible. So far I can see two Spanish bayonets (Yucca glauca), several showy bitterroots (Lewisia cotyledon), and quite a number of young mountain mahonia (Mahonia aquifolia). The mahonia are somewhat dehydrated looking, while the bitterroots look about the same as they did in the fall and the yuccas look exceptionally well (I had to look at them twice to make sure that they weren’t some extra early spring bulbs because they looked so healthy, crisp and green!). The buds on the nanking cherries and a wild elderberry are very plump and full of promise. I took advantage of the deep snow drifts, before the sun had a chance to destroy them, and managed to shovel a little extra insulating moisture onto the bowls of muskeg-dwelling plants that are situated under my down spouts. Hopefully, they will keep from sun scalding for a few more weeks, by which time I hope there is either more snow or warmer temperatures or both.
Last week I took a sharp knife to a seed pod on the Christmas cactus in my sister’s office and was somewhat disappointed to note that although there were plenty of seeds, they still hadn’t formed into the little black spheres that I expect them to become. Right now, they are still soft and white, although they have lost some of the watery clearness they exhibited almost two months ago. It is possible that the cool night temperatures in the office are slowing down seed development. Next week I hope to begin seeding my cacti, tomatoes, and squashes. Until then, MM.

Nanking Cherries
Gazing out over my front yard, which is unusually warm and contains much more snow than usual, I observe my precious nanking cherry bushes (Prunus tomentosa). Originally, my uncle in Balzac had some bushes, and he gave my mom some seedlings. It is from those seedlings that I eventually collected seed and grew my own bushes. They are extremely hardy and productive plants and are some of the first bushes to bloom in spring. On years when we get an exceptionally hard late frost, I have noted a reduced fruit set. However, this has been a rare occurrence. The flowers are white with just a hint of pink, and are followed in the middle of our summer by fruits about one to two centimeters across and tasting more like a sweet plum than a cherry. The fruit is borne singly on a short peg and on good fruit years the fruit may crowd the branches so tightly that they literally clothe the branches in places. The seed is only about half a centimeter in diameter, and usually experiences the most consistent germination when stratified for about two months at somewhere between 0 and 4 0C. Here, where the winters are typically quite dry and cold, I have no problems with germination if I prepare the seed bed and sew the seed in the fall, letting nature stratify the seed for me.
It has been my observation that the bushes tend to develop more branches from the base of the plant than suits my taste. I’m not big on bending over to harvest these guys, so I’ve taken to pruning them heavily whenever I see unwanted sprouts rising from the lower part of the stem. I know that most books will tell you to prune fruit trees after the fruit is harvested, but I have found I can get away with aggressively pruning unwanted branches during the summer, as long as the waste branches are hauled off immediately so they can’t act as a breeding ground for disease.
The worst pest for these plants so far, has been mice on years of heavier than average snow fall. They like to eat the bark off, and often girdle the stems below the snow line. An aggressive program of pest control should be followed, whether this means lots of mouse traps, cats, or even some rodent proof paint applied to the bark. Rabbits also love to eat cherry bark, so you might want to consider protecting your plants with chicken wire in the fall. I have been quite ruthless in removing damaged stems, and have found that these resilient plants have enough food reserves in their roots to re-grow new tops if you are patient enough. Again, there might be so many sprouts that you might want to consider thinning them severely. Just remember to support the chosen future main stems with stakes, as they may be quite spindly at first.
This species makes a wonderful hedge, as it grows naturally bushy. It also makes a good accent plant if it is pruned into the shape that you want it. The important thing to remember is that it is insect pollinated and will bear the most fruit if at least two bushes are planted side by side. If you are looking for a hardy, resilient, fast-growing plant, you can’t go wrong with choosing this species. MM.

Dirty Birds
We have been providing our birds with fresh water for a couple of years now, mainly because everything we have read indicates that they can’t resist it. Unfortunately, two summers of observation have proved this to be untrue. Instead of reveling in this source of hydration, the little varmints turned up their beaks at it. They sooner preferred to drink out of mud puddles and such over the immaculately clean bird bath with its filtered water. In due course of time, we lost interest in maintaining the birdbath’s spotless cleanliness, and joy of joy, the little birdies began to pay attention to it; drinking, splashing around. Now that the birdies were flocking to the bath, my wife cleaned it and added filtered water. This was a big mistake, as our feathered friends once more snubbed us. Through repeating this cycle numerous times, we have established a relationship that loosely connects the clearness or visibility of the water to the amount of attention that avians pay to it.
Thinking that availability of other sources of fresh water was skewing our observations, I decided to buy my wife a heated pet dish for my wife for Christmas (For the joy of observing the birds of course!). Once again, the feathered horde flummoxed us by spurning the clean water … until it was filthy … then we had regular visits for drinks. I am firmly convinced that birds have different standards from humans. For instance, if birds were to raise funds for the dry fowl in underdeveloped nations, they would engineer special water filthification systems.
Please let me know if you have made similar or if you have made contrary observations in this area. This mystery puzzles me, and any help you can provide will be welcome. Thank you. MM.

Natural Water Scapes
Several variations on the water theme exist in nature, but they can usually be generalized as combinations of the following: standing or flowing; open or choked with plants. People are generally most interested in open flowing water, most likely because this makes the water more visible and it adds a sound component to their garden. There are specific problems with open water, because natural entropy tends to eventually fill such garden features with weeds (algae, mosses, and other aquatic plants) and/or dirt (dust, twigs, and dead leaves). There are at least two ways of dealing with this problem. The first is to remove these “weeds”. This can again be managed in two main ways: poison them or physically remove them. This can be very time consuming and introduces unwanted chemicals to your yard.
As an alternative to flowing water there is stagnant water. It is much easier to cover over the water feature with plants of your choosing. Hundreds of species of mosses are ideally suited for this. Water lilies and other oxygenators also help to crowd out unwelcome plants. These types of settings create ideal support for specific types of higher plants. Showy hydrophilic species include insectivores (like butterworts (Pinguicula sp.), pitcher plants (Sarracenia sp.), and sundews(Drosera spp.)), some species of terrestrial orchids (Habenaria spp., some Listera spp., Malaxis spp., Spiranthes romanzoffiana, and others) and other showy hydrophytic species (like water lilies (Nuphar spp. and Nymphaea spp.) and buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliate).
At this point you are probably thinking that if you have a stagnant pond filled with these kinds of plants, it will quickly fill with algae and bacteria and will begin to smell bad. I have found a way around this by elevating the pond and cycling through fresh rainwater. The easiest way to set this up is to position the water feature beneath a downspout. During periods of drought I have topped up the water level using a watering can on a twice-weekly regime. The reason that I use rainwater is because most of these types of plants are sensitive to and easily damaged by high nutrient levels. This especially applies to the insectivores. If you choose to grow these fascinating specimens, then make certain never to fertilize or to use chlorinated water.
A further dimension added by water features is its attraction for animals. Open water may invite visitors in the form of birds and mammals, and you may choose to make it a home for pet fish or reptiles or amphibians. If you choose to adapt your water feature to house pets, make certain that conditions are specifically adapted to their needs, including temperature, oxygen, light, nutrient cycling and predator and disease protection. Even so, be prepared for some disappointments, as urban wildlife in the form of predators can show up in the most unexpected forms. Pet fish can be wiped out in an instant by herons, eagles, osprey, raccoons, and a host of others. Don’t think negatively; just try to anticipate problems well ahead of time. MM.

Planning for Specific Pollinators
A growing trend in gardening is the creation of specific themes. Some people develop their yards with water as a main feature. Other people select only wild indigenous plants. Yet others are fussy about only attracting butterflies or even hummingbirds. You probably already know that the butterflies and hummingbirds are acting as pollinators for specific flowers. Some people would say that these animals have coevolved with certain plants in a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship: the plant is cross pollinated with another, thereby increasing the genetic diversity of its offspring and consequently their chances of survival; the animal gets a small sample of energy rich nectar. Many plants that rely on animals for cross pollination have nectaries near the bases of their flowers. The animal must brush past the other flower parts when searching for nectar. By observing the flower structure, color, the time the flower opens and closes, the amount of nectar and the part of the world it comes from, one can usually work out, in a roundabout way, what the most likely pollinator is for a particular plant.
For example, nocturnal pollinators usually possess poor eyesight, and a keen sense of smell, so if a flower opens in the evening and is white and smells strongly, it is trying to attract some animal that is active at night. Color is not as important to these plants, as their pollinators are relying on olfactory rather than visual clues to the nectar’s whereabouts. Colorful flowers are reserved more for diurnal pollinators, and of these, insects and their allies quite often rely on light pattern beyond wavelengths visible to us humans. Bees, wasps and butterflies often see into the ultraviolet wavelengths, and flowers favored by them often have ultraviolet streaks leading toward their centers, almost like runway lights at the airport. They also like sweet smelling flowers. Large pollinators, like birds and bats, often visit exceedingly deep flowers and are rewarded with large quantities of nectar. Flies and bats favor rancid smells that emulate rotting organic matter.
As well as taking advantage of the plant’s nectar, the pollinator may also have evolved to use other parts of the plant as a food source. For example, the yucca moth’s young often eat a small quantity of seeds. A similar relationship exists between species of fig wasp and fig. In addition to food source, also try to anticipate the pollinator’s other needs: some species may need specific water, cover, breeding conditions, or combinations of requirements. If you are thoughtful and persistent, you may attract specific animals to your garden, even if an ocean of houses surrounds you. Theme gardens can be very rewarding for those interested in this topic. Until next week, MM.

Planning for Energy Efficiency and a Pleasing Winter Garden
With the cold weather, you may not be able to accomplish much outside, but you can do some measuring and draw some sketches of possible changes to your garden. With current high energy costs, you can reduce wind flow past buildings, thereby reducing heat lost through convection. Factors to consider when selecting appropriate species include the maximum or potential size and the growth rate of the possible plants. Remember this simple rule: the bigger the maximum or potential size, the farther the plant must be from the building. For one thing, you don’t want to have a towering giant of a tree come crashing through the side of your house in a wind storm. Furthermore, an object can slow down wind for up to ten times its height. Therefore, it is best to place trees and large shrubs two to ten times their maximum or potential size from buildings. The north and west sides are traditionally the windy sides in this part of the world. Therefore, these are the best sides for planting evergreen trees and shrubs. South and east sides are usually less windy. Here you will learn to appreciate the fact that deciduous trees can produce welcome shade in summer, while allowing a large amount of radiant heat in the form of light to slip through their branches in winter.
In our harsh winters we learn that the gardening season is very short, developing an appreciation for the fact that most of the year will find our plants in a dormant state. This means that we will want the winter faces of our plants to be showy or colorful enough to provide interest, even when they are not blooming or growing. Have a look around. Does the white bark of a birch appeal to you? How about the disheveled look of a bur oak (Quircus macrocarpa)? What shade of green in your evergreens will best complement or contrast the color of your house? Observe the yards of other gardeners and note what species might improve the look of your snowscape.
Another factor to consider is the high cost of building materials for flower beds, retaining walls, walkways, trellises, greenhouses, cold frames, and other garden related materials. Stores often hold sales in these items, and by planning placement and size of these structures now, you can make a list and hopefully snag some of this equipment when it is advertised as being reduced. Of course, the best deals will probably be found toward the end of the spring season with the disadvantage of a reduced selection. These are just a few of the concepts you may wish to consider as you dream about puttering in your garden while it sleeps in its world of snow and ice. Happy dreaming. MM.

Snow
Snow is a wonderful insulating blanket, ideally suited to trapping air. By its very nature, aging it produces a tough upper crust which holds in the heat, usually radiated slowly up from the soil, thus partially melting the initially fluffy snow flakes and turning them into coarse, sugar-like crystals. Anyone who has tried walking in old, deep, undisturbed snow will attest to the fact that it is rather like walking on loose, dry beach sand. This thermal winter blanket traps air in a manner similar to the insulation in your house walls, evening out radical changes in temperature that are experienced in some locations. Its glittering white reflective surface also helps in maintaining its structure and evening out temperature, because white is a good reflector of light and heat. In addition, if the surface layer starts to melt and refreezes, then a hard crust can develop at the surface. Depending on its incident angle, the sun’s rays can have significant heating potential, even in the dead of winter. By covering plants with this light-blocking layer, wide temperature fluctuations are avoided along with the potential desiccation and death that may easily follow.
The wind has a tendency to push snowflakes about, especially when they are still fresh and feather-light, apportioning more snow to the lea side of disruptions in the winter landscape. This in turn creates microclimates: areas that are allotted slightly more moisture than average during the critical transition period when the snow melts in the spring. As this magic blanket covers and protects plants from the dehydrating winter sun, so too does it act as a blind for small rodents and insects that are adapted to the cold. They can scurry about their business and seldom have to worry about the large predators from the outer world.
As a creature that can manipulate his environment, man has found ways to alter the properties of snow, changing its density and consequently its insulating and reflecting characteristics both intentionally and unintentionally. People involved in the construction of temporary winter access roads have long discovered that removing most of the snow cover results in rapid freeze-up of the ground beneath, thereby resulting in a nice hard driving surface. We unwittingly do similar things by unintentionally compacting the snow through some traditional winter activities. Skiing, snowshoeing, and especially using snow machines can accelerate freezing in the soil, thereby putting stress on some of the more sensitive plants. Chasing wildlife during this time of year is exceptionally stressful for them as they not only find it tough going to run in the snow, which causes them to sweat easily. This sweating was designed to cool the animal off rapidly, but in the winter months such cooling can be fatal as it may occur much more rapidly than nature intended, sending the distressed animal into a state of shock.
In order to have a minimal impact on the environment, please be considerate and keep to designated trails. Try to engage in activities that compact as little snow surface area as possible. Avoid bending and bumping into woody vegetation that is more brittle at this time of year. Lastly, put yourself in the animal’s position, and if you do see wildlife, provide for them a large buffer zone so they will not feel threatened and forced to run. Until next week, enjoy and appreciate the winter landscape! MM.

Search for Seeds
I am looking for seeds of poison ivy (Rhus radicans). Be careful not to handle any part of the plant with your bare hands: it is best to use disposable gloves. If you do accidentally touch it, wash with a strong soap and lots of water. In the event that you manage to collect some ripe seeds from this species, I will be willing to exchange an equal number of seeds from one or more of the following species: Camassia quamash; Perideridia gairdneri; Psoralia esculenta; Calochortus apiculatus; Fritillaria pudica; Drosera rotundifolia.
Please contact me as soon as you think you have identified this plant so that we can arrange an exchange. See you next week. MM.

Feeding Birds
Feeding wild birds can be even more entertaining than watching television. As long as there’s daylight you have the possibility of seeing these normally shy, retiring little creatures close up, in a controlled setting. Individual personalities may be observed among flock members, and a keen observer will soon tag these individuals with descriptive names. We have been feeding the birds at our home for a number of years now, and it has provided me with the opportunity of experimenting with different types of feed. My parents have also fed the birds, on and off, for an even longer period, and as they live in the country it has allowed me to compare and contrast feeding habits.
THE COUNTRY BIRD AND THE CITY BIRD: Certain species of bird are rarely seen at our feeders in town, but are regulars at Mom’s feeding stations. Blue jays, whiskey jacks, juncos, and several species of woodpecker love to hang out at my parents’ bird feeders, while spurning mine.
SEED: The most useful birdseed in terms of attracting the greatest variety of species is the small plain black sunflower seed. Do not buy the large black sunflower seed with the white stripe, as this type of seed is too large for some of the smaller birds. Chickadees, nuthatches, and many members of the finch family favor small black sunflower seed. It is reasonably inexpensive, keeps well, and is reasonably easy to remove if it gets into your flower beds (easy to weed out once it germinates). Deer often enter our yard seeking food, when everything is covered with ice or snow, and they have repeatedly consumed the seed that the birds dropped from the feeders. Another food that is more seasonal in its consumption is marketed as Niger seed and is the seed of a member of the sunflower family. These seeds are very small and while they are greatly favored by the smaller members of the finch family (pine siskins, redpolls), some of the larger finches and their allies (Grosbeaks) will not be able to do anything with them. Suet is something that birds in the countryside seem to appreciate more than our citified birds, and it is favored by chickadees, woodpeckers, and nuthatches when the weather is cold. Peanuts are also a good winter treat, as they won’t go rancid in the cold. This treat has to be presented in a way that appeals to the birds, and the quality of peanuts varies greatly from store to store. I have found that pet store peanuts are often rancid or moldy and not worth the saving compared to human grade, blanched shelled peanuts. Try to get a smaller size of nut, as the larger peanuts may be hard for smaller birds to handle. If you do get large peanuts, then put them in a woodpecker feeder where they are packed together and so they won’t clog the openings of regular feeders. Mixed seed is usually a waste of money as many of the seeds may not be palatable to birds in your area. As a result they may turn their little beaks up at these mixtures, or the birds or the wind might throw these seeds to the ground where the mice might more greatly benefit from it. This is true for mixes bought in bags as well as mixed seed cemented into lumps (cubes, balls, bell-shapes) using gelatin or suet. Seeds and fruits of specific trees and shrubs can be a real treat for some birds. Hordes of waxwings usually visit our yard in late fall and early winter, intent upon consuming every single berry from the hawthorn and mountain ash trees in our yard. At about the same time in the country, my mother’s Manitoba maples are usually visited by small flocks of evening grosbeaks. They love the maple seeds on the female trees.
PRESENTATION is a complex issue as it has several components. Consistency is important. If they know it is there they will come. If they don’t know it is there, then it may spoil before somebirdy finally finds it! It has been said that proximity to trees and shrubs is critical, and this is true. Many species use trees and shrubs as cover, and some just like to carry off each seed and eat it on their own private branch away from the rest of the flock. Height above the ground may influence what types of birds visit a feeder as some species are strictly ground feeders, while others prefer feeding one, two, or even three meters or more off the ground. The number of feeders and the type of feeder used will influence the amount of traffic to a feeder, because some individuals can be quite territorial. I’ve repeatedly read that birds just love to have open water to drink from in winter when the ground is frozen, but my birds usually just thumb their beaks at my heated pet dish full of nice clean water.
SAFETY is somewhat tied to presentation through placement of the feeders. It also relates to predators and other hazards that may lurk in your yard. Those dearly beloved pussycats will be the first ones to succumb to the temptation of catching a fast-moving bird, just for the shear challenge of it! If you or your neighbors have an outdoor kitty, then it may be wiser to avoid feeding the birds, because in the end all you are doing is exterminating them. I have found that open rain barrels present a hazard to young birds and have placed covers on them to keep the birds from drowning. Large windows, especially when they are immaculately clean and reflective, tend to fool birds into flying into them. It is better to have a slightly dirty window than a lot of dead birds heaped up beneath a nice clean window!
There are many aspects of bird feeding that I haven’t covered here, and if you are interested in this subject, then I highly recommend that you seek out some references in your local library. You might also wish to enroll in a bird watching club in your area. Have fun, but please try to respect the health and well being of these tiny visitors. MM

Unusual Seed Catalogs
This is a good time to talk about seed catalogs. I got a free catalog from J. L. Hudson, Seedsman, and a rare seed supplement from Sacred Succulents yesterday. Of course it helps to have ordered some of their amazing seeds last year. I first discovered the online catalog from J. L. Hudson while searching for seed of Lewisia rediviva two years ago. My aim was to order several grams of seed in the hopes that a plant rated for zone 4 would have a few individuals that could cope with the extremes of a zone 2b climate. Seeding that fall (in order to break natural seed dormancy – you see a pattern here, don’t you), I was pleased to see a smattering of tiny reddish individuals germinate the next spring (Last year). As I observed them through the course of the summer, the tops disappeared, but new, green tops appeared once more towards the end of the summer. This means that the original plants had either entirely died and been replaced, or more likely, that the original plants had gone temporarily dormant to deal with sandy soil and a hot summer sun. I anxiously await spring in anticipation of continuing this saga.
J. L. Hudson is not just any old seed distributor. They specialize in species of ethnobotanical interest. This means if indigenous peoples had a significant use for the plant, like food, medicine, shelter, clothing or religion, then it would be of interest to J. L. Hudson. They have stuff from all over the world, from flowers, to trees, to vegetables; their prices are reasonable, and their product is pretty good compared to some places I’ve ordered from in the past (Richters has not inspired confidence in their products of late).
Sacred Succulents also deals with ethnobotanical material while specializing in cacti and succulents. Stand warned that not even I am nutty enough to try to grow their plants outside in this climate. I love cacti and was previously discouraged in learning more about them, as the more common seed catalogs only had mixed cactus seed available for sale. How am I supposed to find out what species grew from a bunch of unknown mixed seed when it may take years for the plant to come to flower! Very frustrating to say the least! I am pleased to say that Sacred Succulents not only package one species in each properly labeled packet, for the more common species they have reasonable numbers of seed per packet. Also, even in the appalling light and temperatures in my house, I was able to get a few individuals to survive. Their catalog is valued somewhere in the neighborhood of $2.00USD ($4.00USD for international orders), but they have shipped me new catalogs for free because I continue ordering from them. You should not expect any glossy photos of bright flowers from either of these seed distributors. You should expect a brief story relating to the reported history and uses of each plant. If you’re like me and feel that each plant has a story to tell, then this will be of much more importance to you than some enhanced color photograph.
Another favorite nursery of mine is Lawyers Nursery in Montana. They are a wholesale distributor of trees and shrubs and they have an excellent supply of seed. The one drawback is that they are wholesale, so if you only want a couple of seeds to do some landscaping in the backyard, you are out of luck as they usually sell their seeds by the pound. However, if you’re like me and wish to do some serious selection from among a reasonably sized population, then this would be the place to go! They can usually get you stuff from all over the world, and they are very good at producing certification to get things legally across international borders.
All three of these nurseries have some listing on the internet. Here are their addresses: J. L. Hudson, Seedsman, P.O. Box 337, La Honda, California, 94020 USA ; http://www.jlhudwsonseed.net/.
Lawyer Nursery, Inc., 950 Highway 200 West, Plains, Montana, USA 59859-9706; www.lawyernursery.com
Sacred Succulents, P.O. Box 781, Sebastopol, California, 95473 USA; www.sacredsucculents.com
There are many other exciting catalogs out there, but these are the ones I am most familiar with at the moment. In the future, others will be added when they have proven themselves to me. Happy seed dreams! MM

Christmas cacti, Honey Locusts, and Mice.

You’re probably all sick of hearing about Christmas? Truth be known, I don’t kick up much of a fuss over all the commercialism. At best I do some baking and get a few presents for my sister, my wife, and my wife’s friends – no tree, no lights, nothing to clean up after. During the much celebrated day we made a brief round on some back roads in an attempt at midwinter bird watching, and my wife’s vigilant eyes spotted a flock of at least two hundred snow buntings feeding in a feedlot amongst the cows. On previous winters I have seen groups of up to a dozen in that area … maybe it’s a colder or snowier than average year?
My mother has several color variations on the Christmas(?) cactus (blooms in November), and she keeps them in my sister’s office. This year I put a tight weather seal on the bottom of the door to shut out the unbearably cold draft, and the slight change in temperature allowed the cacti to set fruit. On previous years I have made repeated attempts at cross pollinating them and each time the flowers would abscise without any fruit development whatsoever. I am looking forward to doing some fruit dissection in search of seeds (I know you all think, “This is one sick puppy!”). I will try to remember to tell you what I discover. Should there be anything worth experimenting with, it will be packaged, labeled and saved until the light conditions are better (probably sometime around April). Then I figure an orchid potting mix might be the way to go? Well I have a few months of leeway to do some research on epiphytic cacti.
I took ten of the thornless honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis) seeds that I scarified over Christmas and wrapped them in damp tissue paper in a jar in order to see how quickly they would germinate. They are looking mighty fine, having swollen to at least double their original size (If they would have been this big while I was scarifying them, then I wouldn’t have had such sore finger tips!). At this moment they all have germinated and have roots longer than 2cm, so I put them all into the same flower pot by the livingroom lamp so I can keep an eye on them. I also took about five pawpaw (Asimina triloba) seeds and placed them in the fridge. This test has no real statistical accuracy, but at least I’ll be able to see if any crop failure is on my part, or on the part of the numerous mice that bless the garden. Those little varmints have quite the gluttonous appetite and have repeatedly wiped out my beets in the past! Curse their mangy little tails and floppy ears! I’ve seen nature programs on television where the fox pounces head first into the snow bank, sometimes coming up with fresh mouse for kibbles … why can’t our cats do that? Perhaps my best bet is to purchase one of those revolving mouse traps that keep piling up the live mice inside, the only thing being that they are hard to come by here. I’ll have to look around. Mousies be ware! This wasn’t intended to be a rant against mice as I feel all pests deserve controls from time to time.
Until next week, MM.