PLANTING CACTI
On Monday I took time out to plant my cactus seeds. This year I made up a mixture using about 35% volcanic rock, and 13% each of perlite, vermiculite, zeolite, sand and peat. On the bottoms of the flowerpots I used a layer of packing Styrofoam peanuts to prevent the soil from sifting out of the drainage holes. After seeding I fastened cellophane over the top of the containers using elastic bands, and stood the pots in water until they were saturated by capillary action. This year I tried four types of cacti: a star cactus; dragon fruit; Cardon santos; pishicol Negro(pillow hair cactus). I also planted a species of copal, which is a small desert tree from Mexico, having lemon scented sap and bark and naturally adapting to a bonsai form. However, the seeds of this copal had to soak for two days in 3% hydrogen peroxide. These seeds all came from Sacred Succulents in California (They are putting together a beautiful web site full of stunning pictures!). From J.L.Hudson Seedsman I have several species and heirloom varieties of pepo as well as an heirloom sweet tomato. I’m running out of room on the windowsill and have chosen to plant the tomato for now. I recently bought a small 500watt work lamp with a mercury bulb and set it up over the tote tray that the flowerpots are in. In the mornings and evenings I have had it on for between one and two hours at a time. Eventually I hope to put it on a timer to boost the morning and evening light in that corner. After that I will think about planting the pepos. With any luck we will eventually have a desert in our living room!
A couple of days ago I noticed a white fuzzy mold infecting my planting of star cactus seeds, so I went out on a limb and sprayed the soil with a solid coating of 3% hydrogen peroxide (about 12 good sprays with a misting bottle). I also changed the cellophane cover, as I was concerned that the static electricity that the plastic builds up might be holding some mold spores. I am glad that I tried this, as this morning I observed germination in the pots with the star cactus seeds and the tomato seeds. If anyone has any prior experience with cactus seedlings using bottom heat, then I’d like to know the particulars (type of heater or pad; temperature settings; times). Best of luck in your gardening adventures! MM.
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Sunday, March 18, 2007
SPRING!
On Saturday I was outside, unfettered by winter apparel other than my snow boots, and it did not feel cold. Significant patches of bare ground are developing as the remaining snow becomes more and more granular. In my travels I observed a significant population of collembolans or snow fleas or springtails. These are tiny true insects with tails that are curled under their abdomens. When they are disturbed they flick their tails, which causes them to jump. In the summer they live in the uppermost soil layers, where the air is more breathable, feasting on available organic matter.
Already in the last couple of weeks I have observed numerous small groups of Canada geese, and the behavior of the ravens seems to indicate that they are involved in their usual spring mating activities: getting together in pairs; flying in unusual patterns; calling in a high pitched repetitive hoot rather than their usual croak.
I am sad to report that the ten honey locust seeds that sprouted a couple of months ago have all perished, most likely due to the cold, moldy, poor lighting conditions of our house. No matter. In a couple of more months there will be so many honey locust seedlings outdoors that I won’t know what to do with them all. The pawpaw seeds in the fridge do not show signs of sprouting and this disturbs me. I had hoped they would show some signs of life by now. Looking forward to planting on Monday. MM.
On Saturday I was outside, unfettered by winter apparel other than my snow boots, and it did not feel cold. Significant patches of bare ground are developing as the remaining snow becomes more and more granular. In my travels I observed a significant population of collembolans or snow fleas or springtails. These are tiny true insects with tails that are curled under their abdomens. When they are disturbed they flick their tails, which causes them to jump. In the summer they live in the uppermost soil layers, where the air is more breathable, feasting on available organic matter.
Already in the last couple of weeks I have observed numerous small groups of Canada geese, and the behavior of the ravens seems to indicate that they are involved in their usual spring mating activities: getting together in pairs; flying in unusual patterns; calling in a high pitched repetitive hoot rather than their usual croak.
I am sad to report that the ten honey locust seeds that sprouted a couple of months ago have all perished, most likely due to the cold, moldy, poor lighting conditions of our house. No matter. In a couple of more months there will be so many honey locust seedlings outdoors that I won’t know what to do with them all. The pawpaw seeds in the fridge do not show signs of sprouting and this disturbs me. I had hoped they would show some signs of life by now. Looking forward to planting on Monday. MM.
Monday, March 12, 2007
Melting Snow
Last week temperatures consistently topped the melting point of water, and now a thin strip of front yard garden is visible. So far I can see two Spanish bayonets (Yucca glauca), several showy bitterroots (Lewisia cotyledon), and quite a number of young mountain mahonia (Mahonia aquifolia). The mahonia are somewhat dehydrated looking, while the bitterroots look about the same as they did in the fall and the yuccas look exceptionally well (I had to look at them twice to make sure that they weren’t some extra early spring bulbs because they looked so healthy, crisp and green!). The buds on the nanking cherries and a wild elderberry are very plump and full of promise. I took advantage of the deep snow drifts, before the sun had a chance to destroy them, and managed to shovel a little extra insulating moisture onto the bowls of muskeg-dwelling plants that are situated under my down spouts. Hopefully, they will keep from sun scalding for a few more weeks, by which time I hope there is either more snow or warmer temperatures or both.
Last week I took a sharp knife to a seed pod on the Christmas cactus in my sister’s office and was somewhat disappointed to note that although there were plenty of seeds, they still hadn’t formed into the little black spheres that I expect them to become. Right now, they are still soft and white, although they have lost some of the watery clearness they exhibited almost two months ago. It is possible that the cool night temperatures in the office are slowing down seed development. Next week I hope to begin seeding my cacti, tomatoes, and squashes. Until then, MM.
Last week temperatures consistently topped the melting point of water, and now a thin strip of front yard garden is visible. So far I can see two Spanish bayonets (Yucca glauca), several showy bitterroots (Lewisia cotyledon), and quite a number of young mountain mahonia (Mahonia aquifolia). The mahonia are somewhat dehydrated looking, while the bitterroots look about the same as they did in the fall and the yuccas look exceptionally well (I had to look at them twice to make sure that they weren’t some extra early spring bulbs because they looked so healthy, crisp and green!). The buds on the nanking cherries and a wild elderberry are very plump and full of promise. I took advantage of the deep snow drifts, before the sun had a chance to destroy them, and managed to shovel a little extra insulating moisture onto the bowls of muskeg-dwelling plants that are situated under my down spouts. Hopefully, they will keep from sun scalding for a few more weeks, by which time I hope there is either more snow or warmer temperatures or both.
Last week I took a sharp knife to a seed pod on the Christmas cactus in my sister’s office and was somewhat disappointed to note that although there were plenty of seeds, they still hadn’t formed into the little black spheres that I expect them to become. Right now, they are still soft and white, although they have lost some of the watery clearness they exhibited almost two months ago. It is possible that the cool night temperatures in the office are slowing down seed development. Next week I hope to begin seeding my cacti, tomatoes, and squashes. Until then, MM.
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Nanking Cherries
Gazing out over my front yard, which is unusually warm and contains much more snow than usual, I observe my precious nanking cherry bushes (Prunus tomentosa). Originally, my uncle in Balzac had some bushes, and he gave my mom some seedlings. It is from those seedlings that I eventually collected seed and grew my own bushes. They are extremely hardy and productive plants and are some of the first bushes to bloom in spring. On years when we get an exceptionally hard late frost, I have noted a reduced fruit set. However, this has been a rare occurrence. The flowers are white with just a hint of pink, and are followed in the middle of our summer by fruits about one to two centimeters across and tasting more like a sweet plum than a cherry. The fruit is borne singly on a short peg and on good fruit years the fruit may crowd the branches so tightly that they literally clothe the branches in places. The seed is only about half a centimeter in diameter, and usually experiences the most consistent germination when stratified for about two months at somewhere between 0 and 4 0C. Here, where the winters are typically quite dry and cold, I have no problems with germination if I prepare the seed bed and sew the seed in the fall, letting nature stratify the seed for me.
It has been my observation that the bushes tend to develop more branches from the base of the plant than suits my taste. I’m not big on bending over to harvest these guys, so I’ve taken to pruning them heavily whenever I see unwanted sprouts rising from the lower part of the stem. I know that most books will tell you to prune fruit trees after the fruit is harvested, but I have found I can get away with aggressively pruning unwanted branches during the summer, as long as the waste branches are hauled off immediately so they can’t act as a breeding ground for disease.
The worst pest for these plants so far, has been mice on years of heavier than average snow fall. They like to eat the bark off, and often girdle the stems below the snow line. An aggressive program of pest control should be followed, whether this means lots of mouse traps, cats, or even some rodent proof paint applied to the bark. Rabbits also love to eat cherry bark, so you might want to consider protecting your plants with chicken wire in the fall. I have been quite ruthless in removing damaged stems, and have found that these resilient plants have enough food reserves in their roots to re-grow new tops if you are patient enough. Again, there might be so many sprouts that you might want to consider thinning them severely. Just remember to support the chosen future main stems with stakes, as they may be quite spindly at first.
This species makes a wonderful hedge, as it grows naturally bushy. It also makes a good accent plant if it is pruned into the shape that you want it. The important thing to remember is that it is insect pollinated and will bear the most fruit if at least two bushes are planted side by side. If you are looking for a hardy, resilient, fast-growing plant, you can’t go wrong with choosing this species. MM.
Gazing out over my front yard, which is unusually warm and contains much more snow than usual, I observe my precious nanking cherry bushes (Prunus tomentosa). Originally, my uncle in Balzac had some bushes, and he gave my mom some seedlings. It is from those seedlings that I eventually collected seed and grew my own bushes. They are extremely hardy and productive plants and are some of the first bushes to bloom in spring. On years when we get an exceptionally hard late frost, I have noted a reduced fruit set. However, this has been a rare occurrence. The flowers are white with just a hint of pink, and are followed in the middle of our summer by fruits about one to two centimeters across and tasting more like a sweet plum than a cherry. The fruit is borne singly on a short peg and on good fruit years the fruit may crowd the branches so tightly that they literally clothe the branches in places. The seed is only about half a centimeter in diameter, and usually experiences the most consistent germination when stratified for about two months at somewhere between 0 and 4 0C. Here, where the winters are typically quite dry and cold, I have no problems with germination if I prepare the seed bed and sew the seed in the fall, letting nature stratify the seed for me.
It has been my observation that the bushes tend to develop more branches from the base of the plant than suits my taste. I’m not big on bending over to harvest these guys, so I’ve taken to pruning them heavily whenever I see unwanted sprouts rising from the lower part of the stem. I know that most books will tell you to prune fruit trees after the fruit is harvested, but I have found I can get away with aggressively pruning unwanted branches during the summer, as long as the waste branches are hauled off immediately so they can’t act as a breeding ground for disease.
The worst pest for these plants so far, has been mice on years of heavier than average snow fall. They like to eat the bark off, and often girdle the stems below the snow line. An aggressive program of pest control should be followed, whether this means lots of mouse traps, cats, or even some rodent proof paint applied to the bark. Rabbits also love to eat cherry bark, so you might want to consider protecting your plants with chicken wire in the fall. I have been quite ruthless in removing damaged stems, and have found that these resilient plants have enough food reserves in their roots to re-grow new tops if you are patient enough. Again, there might be so many sprouts that you might want to consider thinning them severely. Just remember to support the chosen future main stems with stakes, as they may be quite spindly at first.
This species makes a wonderful hedge, as it grows naturally bushy. It also makes a good accent plant if it is pruned into the shape that you want it. The important thing to remember is that it is insect pollinated and will bear the most fruit if at least two bushes are planted side by side. If you are looking for a hardy, resilient, fast-growing plant, you can’t go wrong with choosing this species. MM.
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