Dirty Birds
We have been providing our birds with fresh water for a couple of years now, mainly because everything we have read indicates that they can’t resist it. Unfortunately, two summers of observation have proved this to be untrue. Instead of reveling in this source of hydration, the little varmints turned up their beaks at it. They sooner preferred to drink out of mud puddles and such over the immaculately clean bird bath with its filtered water. In due course of time, we lost interest in maintaining the birdbath’s spotless cleanliness, and joy of joy, the little birdies began to pay attention to it; drinking, splashing around. Now that the birdies were flocking to the bath, my wife cleaned it and added filtered water. This was a big mistake, as our feathered friends once more snubbed us. Through repeating this cycle numerous times, we have established a relationship that loosely connects the clearness or visibility of the water to the amount of attention that avians pay to it.
Thinking that availability of other sources of fresh water was skewing our observations, I decided to buy my wife a heated pet dish for my wife for Christmas (For the joy of observing the birds of course!). Once again, the feathered horde flummoxed us by spurning the clean water … until it was filthy … then we had regular visits for drinks. I am firmly convinced that birds have different standards from humans. For instance, if birds were to raise funds for the dry fowl in underdeveloped nations, they would engineer special water filthification systems.
Please let me know if you have made similar or if you have made contrary observations in this area. This mystery puzzles me, and any help you can provide will be welcome. Thank you. MM.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Monday, February 12, 2007
Natural Water Scapes
Several variations on the water theme exist in nature, but they can usually be generalized as combinations of the following: standing or flowing; open or choked with plants. People are generally most interested in open flowing water, most likely because this makes the water more visible and it adds a sound component to their garden. There are specific problems with open water, because natural entropy tends to eventually fill such garden features with weeds (algae, mosses, and other aquatic plants) and/or dirt (dust, twigs, and dead leaves). There are at least two ways of dealing with this problem. The first is to remove these “weeds”. This can again be managed in two main ways: poison them or physically remove them. This can be very time consuming and introduces unwanted chemicals to your yard.
As an alternative to flowing water there is stagnant water. It is much easier to cover over the water feature with plants of your choosing. Hundreds of species of mosses are ideally suited for this. Water lilies and other oxygenators also help to crowd out unwelcome plants. These types of settings create ideal support for specific types of higher plants. Showy hydrophilic species include insectivores (like butterworts (Pinguicula sp.), pitcher plants (Sarracenia sp.), and sundews(Drosera spp.)), some species of terrestrial orchids (Habenaria spp., some Listera spp., Malaxis spp., Spiranthes romanzoffiana, and others) and other showy hydrophytic species (like water lilies (Nuphar spp. and Nymphaea spp.) and buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliate).
At this point you are probably thinking that if you have a stagnant pond filled with these kinds of plants, it will quickly fill with algae and bacteria and will begin to smell bad. I have found a way around this by elevating the pond and cycling through fresh rainwater. The easiest way to set this up is to position the water feature beneath a downspout. During periods of drought I have topped up the water level using a watering can on a twice-weekly regime. The reason that I use rainwater is because most of these types of plants are sensitive to and easily damaged by high nutrient levels. This especially applies to the insectivores. If you choose to grow these fascinating specimens, then make certain never to fertilize or to use chlorinated water.
A further dimension added by water features is its attraction for animals. Open water may invite visitors in the form of birds and mammals, and you may choose to make it a home for pet fish or reptiles or amphibians. If you choose to adapt your water feature to house pets, make certain that conditions are specifically adapted to their needs, including temperature, oxygen, light, nutrient cycling and predator and disease protection. Even so, be prepared for some disappointments, as urban wildlife in the form of predators can show up in the most unexpected forms. Pet fish can be wiped out in an instant by herons, eagles, osprey, raccoons, and a host of others. Don’t think negatively; just try to anticipate problems well ahead of time. MM.
Several variations on the water theme exist in nature, but they can usually be generalized as combinations of the following: standing or flowing; open or choked with plants. People are generally most interested in open flowing water, most likely because this makes the water more visible and it adds a sound component to their garden. There are specific problems with open water, because natural entropy tends to eventually fill such garden features with weeds (algae, mosses, and other aquatic plants) and/or dirt (dust, twigs, and dead leaves). There are at least two ways of dealing with this problem. The first is to remove these “weeds”. This can again be managed in two main ways: poison them or physically remove them. This can be very time consuming and introduces unwanted chemicals to your yard.
As an alternative to flowing water there is stagnant water. It is much easier to cover over the water feature with plants of your choosing. Hundreds of species of mosses are ideally suited for this. Water lilies and other oxygenators also help to crowd out unwelcome plants. These types of settings create ideal support for specific types of higher plants. Showy hydrophilic species include insectivores (like butterworts (Pinguicula sp.), pitcher plants (Sarracenia sp.), and sundews(Drosera spp.)), some species of terrestrial orchids (Habenaria spp., some Listera spp., Malaxis spp., Spiranthes romanzoffiana, and others) and other showy hydrophytic species (like water lilies (Nuphar spp. and Nymphaea spp.) and buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliate).
At this point you are probably thinking that if you have a stagnant pond filled with these kinds of plants, it will quickly fill with algae and bacteria and will begin to smell bad. I have found a way around this by elevating the pond and cycling through fresh rainwater. The easiest way to set this up is to position the water feature beneath a downspout. During periods of drought I have topped up the water level using a watering can on a twice-weekly regime. The reason that I use rainwater is because most of these types of plants are sensitive to and easily damaged by high nutrient levels. This especially applies to the insectivores. If you choose to grow these fascinating specimens, then make certain never to fertilize or to use chlorinated water.
A further dimension added by water features is its attraction for animals. Open water may invite visitors in the form of birds and mammals, and you may choose to make it a home for pet fish or reptiles or amphibians. If you choose to adapt your water feature to house pets, make certain that conditions are specifically adapted to their needs, including temperature, oxygen, light, nutrient cycling and predator and disease protection. Even so, be prepared for some disappointments, as urban wildlife in the form of predators can show up in the most unexpected forms. Pet fish can be wiped out in an instant by herons, eagles, osprey, raccoons, and a host of others. Don’t think negatively; just try to anticipate problems well ahead of time. MM.
Planning for Specific Pollinators
A growing trend in gardening is the creation of specific themes. Some people develop their yards with water as a main feature. Other people select only wild indigenous plants. Yet others are fussy about only attracting butterflies or even hummingbirds. You probably already know that the butterflies and hummingbirds are acting as pollinators for specific flowers. Some people would say that these animals have coevolved with certain plants in a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship: the plant is cross pollinated with another, thereby increasing the genetic diversity of its offspring and consequently their chances of survival; the animal gets a small sample of energy rich nectar. Many plants that rely on animals for cross pollination have nectaries near the bases of their flowers. The animal must brush past the other flower parts when searching for nectar. By observing the flower structure, color, the time the flower opens and closes, the amount of nectar and the part of the world it comes from, one can usually work out, in a roundabout way, what the most likely pollinator is for a particular plant.
For example, nocturnal pollinators usually possess poor eyesight, and a keen sense of smell, so if a flower opens in the evening and is white and smells strongly, it is trying to attract some animal that is active at night. Color is not as important to these plants, as their pollinators are relying on olfactory rather than visual clues to the nectar’s whereabouts. Colorful flowers are reserved more for diurnal pollinators, and of these, insects and their allies quite often rely on light pattern beyond wavelengths visible to us humans. Bees, wasps and butterflies often see into the ultraviolet wavelengths, and flowers favored by them often have ultraviolet streaks leading toward their centers, almost like runway lights at the airport. They also like sweet smelling flowers. Large pollinators, like birds and bats, often visit exceedingly deep flowers and are rewarded with large quantities of nectar. Flies and bats favor rancid smells that emulate rotting organic matter.
As well as taking advantage of the plant’s nectar, the pollinator may also have evolved to use other parts of the plant as a food source. For example, the yucca moth’s young often eat a small quantity of seeds. A similar relationship exists between species of fig wasp and fig. In addition to food source, also try to anticipate the pollinator’s other needs: some species may need specific water, cover, breeding conditions, or combinations of requirements. If you are thoughtful and persistent, you may attract specific animals to your garden, even if an ocean of houses surrounds you. Theme gardens can be very rewarding for those interested in this topic. Until next week, MM.
A growing trend in gardening is the creation of specific themes. Some people develop their yards with water as a main feature. Other people select only wild indigenous plants. Yet others are fussy about only attracting butterflies or even hummingbirds. You probably already know that the butterflies and hummingbirds are acting as pollinators for specific flowers. Some people would say that these animals have coevolved with certain plants in a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship: the plant is cross pollinated with another, thereby increasing the genetic diversity of its offspring and consequently their chances of survival; the animal gets a small sample of energy rich nectar. Many plants that rely on animals for cross pollination have nectaries near the bases of their flowers. The animal must brush past the other flower parts when searching for nectar. By observing the flower structure, color, the time the flower opens and closes, the amount of nectar and the part of the world it comes from, one can usually work out, in a roundabout way, what the most likely pollinator is for a particular plant.
For example, nocturnal pollinators usually possess poor eyesight, and a keen sense of smell, so if a flower opens in the evening and is white and smells strongly, it is trying to attract some animal that is active at night. Color is not as important to these plants, as their pollinators are relying on olfactory rather than visual clues to the nectar’s whereabouts. Colorful flowers are reserved more for diurnal pollinators, and of these, insects and their allies quite often rely on light pattern beyond wavelengths visible to us humans. Bees, wasps and butterflies often see into the ultraviolet wavelengths, and flowers favored by them often have ultraviolet streaks leading toward their centers, almost like runway lights at the airport. They also like sweet smelling flowers. Large pollinators, like birds and bats, often visit exceedingly deep flowers and are rewarded with large quantities of nectar. Flies and bats favor rancid smells that emulate rotting organic matter.
As well as taking advantage of the plant’s nectar, the pollinator may also have evolved to use other parts of the plant as a food source. For example, the yucca moth’s young often eat a small quantity of seeds. A similar relationship exists between species of fig wasp and fig. In addition to food source, also try to anticipate the pollinator’s other needs: some species may need specific water, cover, breeding conditions, or combinations of requirements. If you are thoughtful and persistent, you may attract specific animals to your garden, even if an ocean of houses surrounds you. Theme gardens can be very rewarding for those interested in this topic. Until next week, MM.
Sunday, February 4, 2007
Planning for Energy Efficiency and a Pleasing Winter Garden
With the cold weather, you may not be able to accomplish much outside, but you can do some measuring and draw some sketches of possible changes to your garden. With current high energy costs, you can reduce wind flow past buildings, thereby reducing heat lost through convection. Factors to consider when selecting appropriate species include the maximum or potential size and the growth rate of the possible plants. Remember this simple rule: the bigger the maximum or potential size, the farther the plant must be from the building. For one thing, you don’t want to have a towering giant of a tree come crashing through the side of your house in a wind storm. Furthermore, an object can slow down wind for up to ten times its height. Therefore, it is best to place trees and large shrubs two to ten times their maximum or potential size from buildings. The north and west sides are traditionally the windy sides in this part of the world. Therefore, these are the best sides for planting evergreen trees and shrubs. South and east sides are usually less windy. Here you will learn to appreciate the fact that deciduous trees can produce welcome shade in summer, while allowing a large amount of radiant heat in the form of light to slip through their branches in winter.
In our harsh winters we learn that the gardening season is very short, developing an appreciation for the fact that most of the year will find our plants in a dormant state. This means that we will want the winter faces of our plants to be showy or colorful enough to provide interest, even when they are not blooming or growing. Have a look around. Does the white bark of a birch appeal to you? How about the disheveled look of a bur oak (Quircus macrocarpa)? What shade of green in your evergreens will best complement or contrast the color of your house? Observe the yards of other gardeners and note what species might improve the look of your snowscape.
Another factor to consider is the high cost of building materials for flower beds, retaining walls, walkways, trellises, greenhouses, cold frames, and other garden related materials. Stores often hold sales in these items, and by planning placement and size of these structures now, you can make a list and hopefully snag some of this equipment when it is advertised as being reduced. Of course, the best deals will probably be found toward the end of the spring season with the disadvantage of a reduced selection. These are just a few of the concepts you may wish to consider as you dream about puttering in your garden while it sleeps in its world of snow and ice. Happy dreaming. MM.
With the cold weather, you may not be able to accomplish much outside, but you can do some measuring and draw some sketches of possible changes to your garden. With current high energy costs, you can reduce wind flow past buildings, thereby reducing heat lost through convection. Factors to consider when selecting appropriate species include the maximum or potential size and the growth rate of the possible plants. Remember this simple rule: the bigger the maximum or potential size, the farther the plant must be from the building. For one thing, you don’t want to have a towering giant of a tree come crashing through the side of your house in a wind storm. Furthermore, an object can slow down wind for up to ten times its height. Therefore, it is best to place trees and large shrubs two to ten times their maximum or potential size from buildings. The north and west sides are traditionally the windy sides in this part of the world. Therefore, these are the best sides for planting evergreen trees and shrubs. South and east sides are usually less windy. Here you will learn to appreciate the fact that deciduous trees can produce welcome shade in summer, while allowing a large amount of radiant heat in the form of light to slip through their branches in winter.
In our harsh winters we learn that the gardening season is very short, developing an appreciation for the fact that most of the year will find our plants in a dormant state. This means that we will want the winter faces of our plants to be showy or colorful enough to provide interest, even when they are not blooming or growing. Have a look around. Does the white bark of a birch appeal to you? How about the disheveled look of a bur oak (Quircus macrocarpa)? What shade of green in your evergreens will best complement or contrast the color of your house? Observe the yards of other gardeners and note what species might improve the look of your snowscape.
Another factor to consider is the high cost of building materials for flower beds, retaining walls, walkways, trellises, greenhouses, cold frames, and other garden related materials. Stores often hold sales in these items, and by planning placement and size of these structures now, you can make a list and hopefully snag some of this equipment when it is advertised as being reduced. Of course, the best deals will probably be found toward the end of the spring season with the disadvantage of a reduced selection. These are just a few of the concepts you may wish to consider as you dream about puttering in your garden while it sleeps in its world of snow and ice. Happy dreaming. MM.
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